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AAA E SCIENCE AND ART 



OF 



CUTTING AND MAKING 



LADIES' GARMENTS, 



AS DEMONSTRATED BY 



GRIFFIN Sc KUDsTOIXl'S 



GREAT AMERICAN DRAUGHTING MACHINE, 



SECURED BY LETTERS PATENT. 



MANUFACTORY AND OFFICE AT LYNN, MASS. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S73, by Caleb H. Griffin and 
David Knox, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



LYNN: 

PRESS OF CHAS. F. BESSOM, 

No. 99 Munroe Street. 

1873. 



GRADING PATTERNS. 

The large and rapidly growing demand for patterns for ladies 7 
and children's garments is a source of much profit, and gives 
pleasant employment to a large number of ladies and gentle- 
men engaged in draughting, cutting said forwarding, draughts of 
the latest fashions to all parts of the country. To those already 
engaged in this art 

THE GREAT AMERICAN DRAUGHTING MACHINE 

secures greater rapidity, positive accuracy, and a marked sav- 
ing of time, money, and patience, and to those desirous of en- 
tering the field as graders of patterns, for either private or pub- 
lic purposes, this machine cannot fail to be of inestimable value, 
for, by no other rule or system extant can such perfect and 
profitable results be attained. This we are prepared to prove, 
at any and all times, by practical demonstration. 

GRIFFIN & KNOX, 

Proprietors. 



N. B. — See note Thirty-one, page 29. 

" Scale No. 8/' in explanatory note Nineteen, cut No. 6, 
page 20, should read Scale No. 0. 



THE SCIENCE AND ART 



OF 



CUTTING AND MAKING 



LADIES' GARMENTS, 



AS DEMONSTRATED BY 



'geiffin &c kihstoxi's 



GREAT AMERICAN DRAUGHTING MACHINE, 



SECUKED BY LETTERS PATENT. 

_____ 

MANUFACTORY AND OFFICE AT LYNN, MASS. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by Caleb H. Griffin and 
David Knox, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



LYNN: 

PRESS OF CHAS. F. BESSOM, 

No. 99 Munroe Street. 

1873. 



f&O 



2 & ' 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

Previous to the invention of The Great American Draught- 
ing Machine, the almost universal practice by professional 
dressmakers, of subjecting their customers to a frequent trying 
on, pinning, taking in, and letting out process, was always a 
source of great annoyance, oftentimes quite expensive, and 
proved conclusively that the art of dressmaking was but partial- 
ly developed and was exceedingly imperfect. 

What would the ladies say of a tailor so deficient in a knowl- 
edge of his art as to subject their husbands to such unnecessary 
annoyances as those mentioned above ? Would they not say, 
and say it justly, that a tailor so void of science and mechanical 
skill deserves no patronage ? 

As the forms of most ladies are more perfect, and are easier 
to fit than those of gentlemen, no apology, except that of marked 
deficiency in a knowledge of the art which they profess, can be 
offered by those claiming to be dressmakers, but who cannot fit 
a dress with certainty without such practices as we have- just re- 
ferred to. 

Having been subjected to the severest tests, this machine has, 
in every instance, proved absolutely perfect, and scepticism fades 
from its presence like dew from the sun. 

To the professional dressmaker this machine opens a source of 
profit, and insures a perfection in her art never previously 
reached or even thought possible. The Modiste who neglects 
to possess one of these machines is in constant danger of losing 
her customers, for the latter are sure to go where perfection 
in the art is a certainty. 

In the Home Circle this machine is an indispensable compan- 
ion saving time and money, and enabling the ladies, who 
choose, to fit garments for the family in a perfect manner. In 
sparsely settled districts, where good dressmakers are scarce, 
this machine is invaluable. 

Persons of irreproachable character, who are versed in the art 

of dressmaking, and who wish to purchase Town, City, County 

or State rights for the sale of this machine, should address us, 

at Lynn, Mass. 

Griffin & Knox, Proprietors. 



DRESS AS A FINE ART. 

Ladies, experience has demonstrated to the world that fine 
taste in dress is a certain indication of advanced civilization 
and intelligence, and the great desideratum of the age is a sim- 
ple, but absolutely perfect, S3 7 stem by which garments may be cut 
and made in such a manner as to give the greatest possible at- 
tractiveness to the female form. 

The quick perception and both natural and acquired superi- 
ority of taste, for which American ladies are so justly celebrated, 
have elevated them to the highest ranks of beauty, virtue and 
intelligence, among the civilized nations of the earth. It is to 
this superiority of ladies, to the manor born, that America owes 
the high and proud position which is accorded to it by the edu- 
cated and refined throughout the world. 

The writer, recognizing the unerring judgment of American 
women, appeals directly to that judgment, feeling that all legiti- 
mate efforts to embellish the form of woman, so as to secure the 
greatest possible symmetry and attractiveness, in the quickest, 
easiest, cheapest and most perfect manner, will be hailed with 
delight, and that a flattering degree of appreciation will burst 
spontaneously from the lips of those ladies who rnay be so for- 
tunate as to adopt Griffin & Knox's perfect system for cutting 
and making female apparel. 



SYSTEMS. 

Numerous S3'stems for cutting, fitting and making ladies' gar- 
ments have, from time tp time, been brought to public notice, 
and while each possessed some degree of merit, all had defects 
which detracted from the claims of the inventors, and made their 



much lauded rules but a partial success, many of them falling 
back into oblivion as suddenly as they were brought to notice. 
The imperfections heretofore so apparent in the various systems 
for cutting, fitting and making ladies' apparel has caused the re- 
jection of very nearly all of them ; but the few improvements 
which have been found in them has given birth to and developed 
a universal desire among ladies for a system absolutely perfect I 
In answer to this imperative demand, science, allied with art, 
put forth an effort resulting in the production and absolute per- 
fection of 

ORIFFIN & KNOX'S 

GEEAT AMEKICAN DKAUGHTING MACHINE, 

which, while it is exceedingly simple and entirely novel in de- 
sign, in construction is perfect in all its parts, producing, in a 
few moments, a perfect draught of any garment. 

So rapid and unerring is this machine, in its operation, when 
guided by ordinary intelligence, that it seems to be endowed 
with fully developed and thoroughly balanced brains. 

This machine is constructed of boxwood and plated metal, is 
very durable, light, of tasty workmanship, and can be sent to 
any address by mail. 

Feeling that this is the machine par excellence, embodying the 
only true system extant for draughting garments, the proprie- 
tors court thorough investigation into its merits, and it affords 
them exceeding great pleasure to test it in comparison with any 
other system, designed for the same or similar object, in the world, 
and they would deem it a special favor if those using other sys- 
tems would request a competitive trial with this machine, for, 
the greater severity of the test the more apparent the merits of 
this machine over all other systems, having the same objects in 
view, appears. Competition with this machine is courted and 
defied. 



TESTIMONY OF HIGH AUTHORITY! 

A. Burdette Smith, proprietor of " Smith's Illustrated Pat- 
tern Bazaar," No. 914 Broadway, New York, the recognized 
authority on fashions, having had one of Griffin & Knox's Great 
American Draughting Machines in constant use for several 
months, writes to the proprietors, under date of June, 1873, as 
follows : 

" So far machine works well; all is perfect, so far as I can see/' 

Signed: A. B. SMITH. 



KEEPING IN FASHION. 

In all civilized communities the people are subservient to 
fashion in a great degree ; therefore, it is highly important that 
artists engaged in the production of ladies' garments should be 
thoroughly conversant with new styles at the earliest possible 
momeDt after their adoption in metropolitan centres, and the 
shortest and best road to information on this subject is to take 
some publication which is prompt and thorough in acquainting 
its readers with the latest fashions. Among the best works of 
the kind, circulated in this country, is " Smith's Pattern Ba- 
zaar," the address of which is given above. The valuable hints, 
both original and selected, contained in this publication, are of 
great value, as well to the professional dressmaker as to ladies 
at home, and the editor's opinion on all subjects pertaining to 
fashions is entitled to the greatest weight, more especially as he 
never commends or advertises anything which does not possess 
real merit. 



A CHAT WITH. THE READER. 

Perfection iri dress wields a subtle, enchanting and irresisti- 
ble power, its influence upon mankind being but little less than 
that of gold. Recognizing this fact, and having a taste for im- 
provement in the art of dressmaking, we have devoted many 
years to the study of the subject under consideration, and be- 



lieving it to be our duty, we now propose to impart to others 
the knowledge which we have acquired. 

Without system no business or profession is likely to succeed, 
and strict attention to detail is of the utmost importance in ar- 
riving at excellence or superiority in any undertaking. Natural 
taste and mechanical skill are very valuable possessions, but 
their usefulness is seriously impaired when not guided by fixed 
rules. Genius is erratic if left to her own course, and many 
talented men and women fail to make a mark in life because the}" 
have no established rules or guiding principles. The top of the 
highest ladder may be reached by a round at a time, but too 
much haste, or a misstep^ may precipitate the climber to the 
ground. 

The science of cutting and fitting, and the art of making per- 
fect dress are as yet (1873) in their infancy, but obstacles which 
formerly beset the paths of professional dressmakers and their 
apprentices are now overcome, and that which once seemed an 
herculean task (the perfect fitting of a dress) is now ensured by 
the use of the Great American Draughting Machine and strictly 
following the rules laid down in this book. 

Among the many thousands of professional dressmakers in 
this country the number who excel in their profession are com- 
paratively few. To reverse this fact is our object, and we con- 
fidently assure the ladies of America, that, with their co-opera- 
tion, we can and will revolutionize the art of dressmaking and 
elevate it to a state of perfection never reached by any other 
system. If any one doubts our ability to accomplish this it will 
afford us great pleasure to demonstrate the truth of our state- 
ment, for we know from practical experience that we make no 
idle boast. 

The most perfect machines, or systems, are of little or no 
value unless operated according to the rules which govern them ; 
this should be constantly borne in mind by the operator, for 
therein lies the foundation and stepping stones to perfection. 
None are too old or too wise to learn, and a recognisance of this 
fact is a very important aid to advancement. 

We have dwelt at some length upon the importance of system 



as a stepping stone to success, being firm in the conviction that 
without a fixed purpose and guiding rules no amount of intelli- 
gence, natural or acquired, will compensate for a non-observance 
of the facts above stated. 

Having paved the way to an introduction to the rules for 
measuring, draughting, cutting, basting and making ladies' gar- 
ments, we close our " chat," again asserting, with truth as firm 
as the rock of ages, that with the Great American Draughting 
Machine, and a strict observance of the rules here laid down, 
any person of ordinary intelligence can warrant a perfect fit. 



TAKING MEASURES. 

The primary and most important act in* securing perfect fit- 
ting garments is in taking the measures. Measures improperly 
taken spoil the work, and destroy the reputation and business 
of the professional. The greater the care exercised in measur- 
ing the greater the ease and satisfaction in making. In this, as 
in everything else, it is well to adopt the motto, " Be sure you 
are right, then go ahead," or " Slow but sure "would be ap- 
plicable. 

The study of form is of great importance and is a powerful 
auxiliary in arriving at perfection in the dressmakers' profession. 
The fact that a very large proportion of garments are ruined in 
taking the measure should impress the Modiste with the impera- 
tive necessity for the exercise of the utmost care in taking the 
dimensions of a form ; in a word, she should " Make haste 
slow." 

The contour of the human body varies in different persons, 
some being quite full across the chest while others are lack- 
ing in fullness ; some having high shoulders and others show- 
ing quite the reverse ; some being wide across the back and nar- 
row across the chest, and others vice versa; some having a 
waist quite small while others strongly incline to embonpoint. 
These variations have, in the use of other systems, been a se- 
rious drawback, and a grievous trial to dressmakers ; but by 
closely following the instructions in this book all such troubles 



8 



are avoided, and the work, when finished, is a " Thing of 
beauty." 



DIRECTIONS. 

Jtf. B. Note all measures in the measure book in the order in 
which they are printed. 

First. Pass the tape directly under the arms, squarely across 
the breast and shoulder blades, and draw it close, being partic- 
ular to observe that the body is in a natural position. 

Second. Direct the customer to stand erect, and draw the 
tape evenly and squarely around the largest part of the chest or 
bust, noting the exact measure in the measure book. 

If the form of the customer requires much curving, in making 
up the dress, a measure taken around the body directly under 
the bust will materially assist the Modiste, especially if the 
waist is not to be tried on in fitting. [See Note Thirty-one. ] 

Third. Pass the tape around the smallest part of the waist, 
in a direct line, and draw firmly, but not tight. 

Fourth. The exact distance between the upper part of the 
prominent neck bone and the lower edge of the waist will give 
the desired length of waist. 

Fifth. Place your customer squarely in front of and facing 
from you, in an erect position, with arms dropped by her sides, 
then pass the tape across the shoulder blades, immediately below 
the arms, noting the distance between the rear edges of the arm- 
pits. This is an important measure and should be very care- 
fully taken. 

Sixth. For width of shoulder, measure in a direct line from 
the neck to the top edge of the shoulder bone. For variations 
in draught see explanatory note Two, page 17. 

Seventh. For obtaining slope of shoulder consult explanatory 
note Ten, page 18. 



Eighth. To obtain the length of side seam, place the tape 
nnder. the arm about half an inch from the rear edge thereof, 
and draw in a vertical line to the lower part of the waist. 

Ninth. Direct your customer to place her right hand on her 
hip, then draw the tape loosely around the arm size, at point in- 
dicated by length of shoulder measure. 

Tenth. Draw the tape from the centre of the top of the back 
bone to the centre of the lower edge of the neck in front. This 
gives half the size of neck. 

Eleventh. Draw the tape from the top of the back bone, over 
the right shoulder, to point desired for point of dart on bust — 
this will give the top or height of dart — thence extend the tape 
downward until the desired length of point is reached. 

Twelfth. For length of arm, raise the right arm of the cus- 
tomer and throw the forearm forward in the form of a square, 
then measure from centre of back to point of elbow, thence to 
knuckle-joint of little finger and deduct half ol the width of 
back. 

Thirteenth. To obtain length of skirt, take the measure at 
back, side and front, consulting the customer as to length, then 
note, in the measure book, the different measures under their 
proper heads. 

DRAUGHTING. 

In draughting, care should be taken to follow instructions ex- 
plicitly, setting the different parts of the machine just as direct- 
ed, in all cases. In this, as in everything else, perfect system 
is not only exceedingly desirable, but it is very essential, and 
should never be departed from. 

If the student begins right, and gives the subject undivided 
attention, success is easily attained, and when once the primary 
principle of the machine is understood, the manner of operating 
it is exceedingly simple, and mistakes are improbable and hardly 
possible. 



10 
ILLUSTRATION NO. 1. 

BACK FORM. 

For an illustration we will suppose a lady's breast measure to 
be thirty-five inches. 

Form of Shoulder. — We set the " Back Neck Scale, No. 1," 
with the figure 35 at the straight edge of the metal, then set "Back 
Shoulder Scale No. 2 " at 35, even with the outer or right hand 
end of the slide in which it works, then elevate on u Scale No. 
5 " to figure 35. 

Width of Back. — Supposing the measure to be fifteen 
inches, we set the " Back No. 3 " on 1\ inches (half of the 
measure) at the outer and right hand edge of the slide in which 
it works, then elevate on " Scale No. 6 " to ngure 35, and make 
a dot at the upper edge and extreme left hand end of " Back 
No. 3." This gives half of width of back and lower point of 
back arm size. 

Length of Waist. — Place " Back Waist Scale No. 4 " on 
kt Back No. 8 " at 16 inches, the supposed desired length of 
waist. This gives the length of waist from the prominent neck 
bone to the lower edge of waist. 

Back Waist. — Retain the " Back. Waist Scale No. 4" in the 
position last mentioned, at a right angle with u Back No. 
8," and make a point at figure 26 (the supposed number of 
inches around the waist) on " Back Waist Scale No. 4." The 
distance from the point to the outer or right hand edge of metal 
on the same scale will give half of back waist line. 

Outline of Back. — Draw a line on the outer edge of " Back 
Neck Scale No. 1," extending it from the straight edge of the 
metal around the outer edge of " Shoulder No. 7" to the num- 
ber of inches designated by the length of shoulder measure 
(supposed to be 7 inches in this illustration). Then draw a line 
on upper edge of " Back Shoulder Scale No. 2 " to outer or 
right hand edge of " Scale No. 6," then to get the bottom waist 
line draw a line at the top of " Back Waist Scale No. 4 " from 
figure 26 to outer or right hand edge of " Back No. 8." 
For variations of this last line see explanatory note Twenty. 

Back Arm Size. — The back instrument or machine having 



11 

now performed its final service in obtaining the outline of back 
in lines and points, it should be removed from the pattern. 
Then place " Scale No. " on the pattern with the white line 
at base of " Dart " on the point formed by angle at junction of 
shoulder line and back shoulder line, then sweep or curve to 
point made at end of " Back No. 3." 

Side Seam. — First draw a line from lower point of back arm 
size to point or figure 26 on " Back Waist Scale No. 4." For 
curve of this line see explanatory note Sixteen, page 19. 

Back Curved Seam or Side Body. — Take one-third of the 
back arm size from the lower point upward and make a dot, then 
place " Dart Scale" upside down, or longest edge upwards, with 
straight edge on back centre line, then place figure line 26 on 
waist line, then dot in same line in hole line " No. 2." Then 
place the point of " Scale No. " on dot in arm size and 
sweep on edge of " Back Form No. 9 " to dot on waist line. 

Side Body. — Lap one-third of back just cut out on to draught 
for side body, with points of back arm size straight with the 
warp or grain of the material, and dot at point of arm size- 
Then place back machine on to the back corresponding with the 
draught lines ; then dot at point of " Back No. 3 " ; then from 
this point draw a straight line to desired length of side seam 
(in this case 8 inches.) Then place your finger on the pattern 
of back arm size, and carry forward machine and pattern until 
26 on " Waist Scale No. 4 " rests on side seam at waist point ; 
then draw a line on " Waist Scale No. 4 " to last point men- 
tioned. Then remove machine and pattern. Then place " Scale 
No. " on last draught and draw a curved line from point of 
side seam to point made to meet back pattern ; then place 
tw Scale No. 0" on draught with acute point of u Dart No. 7" 
on point made by pattern of back arm size. Then draw a line 
around " Back form " No. 9 to waist line ; then allow one-fourth 
of an inch for seam and draw another line. Then place " Scale 
No. " with point for top of side seam and point for arm size 
midway between " Back form No. 9 " and "Arm size No. 3," 
and draw a curved line for arm size. 

This completes the form of the back. Refer to explanatory 
notes Twenty and Twenty-one, pages 21 and 22, for variations. 



12 
ILLUSTRATION NO. 2. 

FRONT FORM. 

Front Neck. — Having previously cat out the back, place ma- 
chine for front on material for dress or pattern, with outer edge 
of " Front Neck Scale No. 1 " half an inch from edge of ma- 
terial and draw a line on the inside of rule " No. 8 ". This 
gives allowance for lap for button-holes. Then place straight 
edge of back pattern against inside edge of " Back Neck Scale 
No. 2 " on front machine, with line No. 2 at figure 35. Then 
set " Scale No. 0" with the square point of ," Neck No. 1 " at 
35 on "Front Neck Scale No. 1," and draw a curved line to 
neck line of back pattern. 

Front Arm Size. — Set metal slide on " Front Arm Size Scale 
No. 3 " with rounding side to the figure 35, then draw a line from 
this figure to point of slide. Then place the end of the tape at 
figure 35, follow line drawn around slide and extend the measure 
to lower point of back arm size, moving back pattern to or from 
to obtain the number of inches noted for arm size, and make a 
dot for shoulder seam. Then place " Scale No. " face down- 
ward, with circular edge of " Arm Size No. 3 " even and corre- 
sponding with round on point of slide. Then draw a line to 
shoulder seam dot. 

Shoulder Seam. — Draw a straight line from shoulder seam 
dot to upper point of neck curved line. 

Height of Dart. — Retain the pattern in the position de- 
scribed in obtaining front neck. Place end of tape at end of 
neck line on back pattern, next to " Back Neck Scale No. 2," 
then measure straight downward the number of inches noted for 
height of dart and make a dot. 

Length of Point. — Retain the tape in the position last named 
extending downward to desired length of point, make a dot, and 
remove front machine and back pattern. 

To Form Darts. — Lay the base or longest straight edge of 
the " Dart Scale" on line formed by " No. 8" with the edge 
of hole line " No. 2 " directly on dot for height of dart, then 
draw a line on said edge. Then reverse u Dart Scale," placing 



OMISSION. 

Illustration No. 2. 

Before placing the machine for front on the material, deduct 
the width of back from the chest measure, and set the inner end 
of the slide on "-Chest Scale " at the line or figure representing 
half of the difference between the two measures. For instance, 
if the chest measure be 38 inches, and the width of back 1 5 
inches, the difference between the two is 23 inches, and half of 
this difference is 11J inches, the figure at which the slide should 
be set. After having set the slide, proceed to obtain draught of 
front form as instructed in " Illustration No. 2." 

P. S. — The breast and waist measures should be noted in the 
measure book two inches less than the figures indicated by the 
tape. See note Thirty-one, page 29. 



gives point of side seam and waist line. Then move " Dart 
Scale " and place its acute point on clot for height of dart, with 
irregular edge of " Dart Scale " nearest to line formed by " No. 
8," then draw a line around irregular edge of " Dart Scale " to 
first base point. Then from acute point on point for height of 
dart, draw a line from said point on straight edge of " Dart 
Scale " to second base point of first dart. This forms the first 
dart. To form the second dart, repeat the operation of form- 
ing the first dart. If the waist should be quite small another 
dart will be required. See Note Seventeen, Page 19. 

Side Seam. — Place either of the straight edges of a Dart 
Scale" on base point of side seam and on base point of 
front bottom arm size, then draw a line from point to point. 

Curve of the Hip. — With the tape, measure straight 



14 



downward from base point of front bottom arm size to 
desired length of side seam (in this illustration supposed to be 
8 inches) then make a dot, then place " Scale " face down- 
ward with point of " Dart No. 7 " on said dot, then draw 
a line around upper edge of said " Dart No. 7 " to last base 
point of second dart. This completes the draught of the front 
waist. 

TRACING AND CUTTING. 

Having draughted a perfect pattern of the desired garment, 
the operations of tracing and cutting out are very simple, and 
consist in first tracing the folded material for lining, with a 
tracing wheel, following all draught lines excepting those for 
neck and arm sizes. The latter should be cut by original 
draught lines, while for allowance for side seam, lines should be 
drawn parallel with, and three fourths of an inch from, original 
draught lines, cutting by outside lines. The same course should 
be pursued with the shoulder and dart seams, allowing half an 
inch for seams. For back and waist seams the operation should 
be repeated, the allowance for seams being one-fourth of an 
inch. 

Cut out the lining to correspond with the above explanations, 
then open it and lay it flat and evenly on outside material, and 
cut the latter to correspond with the size and shape of the 
former. 

BASTING. 

BACK. 

As basting is one of the most important details of the art of 
dressmaking, it should always be done with great care and with 
a view to perfection in the fit. Although the measures may be 
perfect, and the dress may be property draughted and cut, if 
poorly basted all previous care and skill is useless, and the gar- 
ment is a discredit to the Modiste. To baste a dress property, 
retain the lining and outside material in the exact position in 
which they were placed for cutting, then with a needle and 



15 



thread proceed to baste the two together, following minutely 
the traced lines on the lining. 

Always commence at the top and baste downward. 

Beginning with the shoulders, follow the traced lines down- 
ward, keeping the materials even. Then commence on back 
arm size and follow traced lines downward ; also follow traced 
lines downward on side body. 

Having now run in the traced seams, place them together, 
commence at back arm size, keep the two run lines together, and 
hold i,he back curved seam slightly full over the shoulder blade. 
This gives ease to the shoulders. Continue to follow the run 
lines to the waist, holding the edges evenly. This completes 
the basting of the back. 

BASTING FRONT. 

Draw the lining of the front tightly over the outside material, 
run in the traced lines on the shoulders, pass a thread around 
the arm sizes to retain their form until made ; also pass a thread 
around the neck. Then begin at the neck, run traced line down 
to opposite front dart, then full the outside one inch in length 
on lining, stretching the latter to the outside ; then run in 
traced lines to bottom of waist. 

Commence the darts by entering the needle one inch above, 
and on a line with each of the dart lines, forming an inverted 
V with its point at extreme point of darts, then run down to 
base of the darts, following the traced lines carefully, and 
fulling as instructed for front line. 

Commence the side seam at bottom arm size running in 
traced lines half of the length, fulling in one inch as previous- 
ly directed, thus preventing strain on the outside material. 

In basting darts fold* the materials with traced lines oppo- 
site each other, and commence on one thread at point of in- 
verted V. Continue to follow run lines one inch in depth, 
then spring in front curved run lines to within one inch of 
waist line, stretching back run lines until they are even. 
Then hold the base of darts even and baste plain. 



16 



Then turn down and baste front laps for button holes. 

Now baste back and front together, commencing at the top 
of shoulders, fulling in back to front, half way down, one- 
half inch, holding and basting the front slightly fall or nearly 
plain for the remainder of the shoulders. 

Then place the front and back side seams together, holding 
them even, basting in run lines to bottom of waist. 

Great care should always be taken to run in the traced 
lines that all parts may be alike. 

MAKING. 

The most careful attention should be paid to the details of 
making, or, otherwise, all previous care in measuring, draught- 
ing and cutting is useless. 

In making a dress the seamstress should follow system if she 
would work to advantage in every particular. It is well to be- 
gin all the seams at the top and stitch downward, carefully fol- 
lowing the run lines. 

Many Parisian and German dressmakers cut the lining, ex- 
cept the neck, arm size and darts, one-fourth of an inch smaller 
than the outside, and then open the seams, except those for 
darts, turn them under and fell them down on the lining. Then 
they pare the edges of the dart seams carefully and serge them 
neatly, after which they sew on the casings and insert thin and 
elastic whalebones, and if the form be deficient in development 
they pad with cotton in hollow places. 

The above manner of making seams destroys their elasticit}^ 
making them too rigid, and, in our opinion, seams opened and 
sergecl are far preferable. 

In making darts they should be serged neatly and stretched 
on the knee to form the bust, and until the seams are imper- 
ceivable. 

In making sleeves the seams on back arm size should run di- 
rectly over the elbow, while the cap seams should be fulled in on 
the shoulder as practiced by tailors. 

Measures for children's dresses should be taken looser than 
for adults, and no busts are required. 



17 



TABLE OF MEASURES 

For a Medium- Sized Perfect Form. 
The following measures will serve to assist the student in the 



practice of this system : 

Size of breast, 

Size of chest, 

Size of waist, 

Length of waist, . 

Width of back, 

Width of shoulder, 

Slope of shoulder, see notes. 

Length of side seam, 

Size of arm hole, 

Size of neck, 

Height of dart, ) 

Length of point, ) 

Length of arm, 

Length of skirt at back, 

Length of skirt at side, 

Length of skirt at front, 



35 inches. 
38 
26 
16 
15 
7 



16 
15 
15 
23 



EXPLANATORY NOTES. 



BACK DRAUGHT. 




One. — This cut illustrates a pattern of 
the back of a dress as draughted by the 
machine. The short, straight line at 
the top of the draught, with dotted curved 
line crossing it, shows the manner of ob- 
taining the size and form of the back 
neck. In practice, the dotted line should 
rise above the straight line one-fourth of 
an inch at the left, and should fall below 
the same line one-eighth of an inch to 
obtain the circle for the neck. The pat- 
tern or material should be cut by the 
dotted line. 

Two. — Plain line No. 2 is used in ob- 
taining the width of shoulders, and when 



18 



the person measured is perfect it should be drawn as previously 
mentioned in instructions on draughting, but if the shoulders 
are high it should be raised two, or perhaps more, numbers on 
" Scale No. 5," according to the elevation of shoulders. If the 
latter are sloping the line should be dropped correspondingly. 
In taking measures the form or slope of shoulders should be 
noted in the measure book. 

Three. — This line is drawn in obtaining width of back, and 
should never be varied from the rule laid down in draughting. 

Four. — This is the bottom or waist line, and being always 
straight across requires no further explanation. 

Five. — This is an original draught of side seam line, the dot- 
ted line at the right showing the form of curve usually required. 

Six. — This is the arm size line, which should be followed in 
cutting. 

Seven. — This line, for shoulder seam, is first drawn straight, 
and is then crossed in the centre by a dotted line which rises 
and falls above and below it, variations being made to suit the 
hollow in the shoulders. 

Eight. — This lines shows the centre of the back. 

Nine. — This line should be followed in cutting 

FRONT DRAUGHT. 

Ten. — Line No 1 shows front 
form of neck, which should be 
varied, for high or low shoulders, 
to correspond with changes made 
in explaining cut No. 1, the dot- 
ted line showing the variation 
made to meet the back. 

Example — Rise or fall the back 
pattern on front machine, bring- 
ing back shoulder line No. 2 op- 
posite the same figures on " Back 
Neck Scale No. 2," as in example 
on the back. 

Eleven. — Line No. 2 represents 
the shoulder and was previously explained in basting. 




19 



Twelve. — Front arm size line No. 3 should be cut as represen- 
ed in draught. 

Thirteen. — Side seam line No. 4 should always be perpendicu- 
lar or straight. 

Fourteen. — Waist line No. 5 requires no variations except in 
the dotted curved line above, which should be followed in cutting. 

Fifteen. — Darts numbered 6 and 7 and line No. 8 were fully 
explained in draughting and basting. 



Sixteen. — The lines in this cut are the 
same as those explained in cut No. 1, 
with the exception of dotted line run- 
ning from waist line to line No. 9. — 
This variation is made to conform the 
dress to a hollow back. 




Seventeen. — All lines in' this cut 
are the same as in cut No. 2, with 
the exception of lines for third 
dart, which is required for small 
waist. 

How Obtained.— Continue line 
No. 9 to side seam ; place " Dart 
Scale " on the point of the second 
dart, with figure line 35, or the 
figure representing the breast meas- 
ure, over line 9, and dot in hole 
line No. 3. This gives the point of 
third dart. Then place figure line 



20 



representing waist measure over waist line with hole line No. 
3 over base point of last line of second dart, then dot in hole 
line No. 4 for base point of first line of third dart, then repeat as 
last instructed for width of base of third dart, or if a surplus 
of material remains on waist the base of the dart should be 
enlarged until it is taken up ; then, with " Scale No. 0," draw 
an irregular curved line on the left from dot on line No. 9 
to first base point, then draw a straight line from dot on line 
9 to last base point. For this form, as it requires much curv- 
ing, use "Dart Scale" (with hole lines) to obtain irregular 
lines on darts 6 and 7. 

DRAUGHT FOR STOUT FORMS — BACK. 

Eighteen. — Cut No. 5 represents a 
draught for stout forms, with raised 
shoulders, the side seams being long in 
proportion to the back. To obtain the 
length of side seams, measure with tape 
from bottom of arm size to waist line 
No. 4, dropping below to get the required 
length. 

Stout persons require little or no curv- 
ing on shoulders or side body. For point, 
draught as represented in the cut. 

DRAUGHT FOR STOUT FORMS. 
FRONT. 

Nineteen. — Cut No. 6 shows 
the front for a stout lady. In 
this draught, line No. 8 should 
be sprung in three-fourths of 
an inch at the bottom to allow 
for spring for front, and obtain 
first base point of dart 7. In 
draughts for stout forms, in 
darts 6 and 7 use dart on 
" Scale No 8 " drawing the 
lines as in this cut. 




21 



For this form of draught it is sometimes necessary to curve 
the front slightly on shoulder seams, for stooping shoulders. 



Twenty. — This cut represents a draught 
with an allowance of two inches on back 
for gathers when the latter are desired. 
In obtaining this draught, add two in- 
ches, to size of waist, on line No. 8. 
In making up, the back should be gath- 
ered four inches in width, taking" up the 
two inches allowed. 





For front of full dress, place 
"Dart Scale" on draught with out- 
side edge of line No. 1, on line 
No. 8, with figure line represent- 
ing size of waist over waist line, 
then dot on inside edge of hole 
line No. 2, to show space for but- 
ton holes, and bring gathers far- 
ther forward. The same amount 
of space allowed for darts in plain 
waist should be taken for gathers. 



22 




FOR LOW NECK DRESS BACK. 

Twenty-one. — For a low neck dress, 
the back is draughted the same as for 
a plain waist, with the exception that 
the neck is made twice as large on line 
No. 1, two numbers larger on line No. 
2, and making shoulder seam one inch 
longer, thus throwing the shoulder seam 
farther forward. Cut out b}' line No. 
2. 



FOR LOW NECK DRESS 



FRONT. 



Twenty-two. — Draught the same 
as for plain waist. Then use the 
" Dart Scale " to obtain height of 
dart as usual ; but as the dart* 
requires to be further back, dot in 
hole line No. 4, on line No. 9, for 
top of dart, then place the scale 
on line No. 5 in the same man- 
ner, and dot the same as for dart 
in plain waist, then place edge 
of the scale on last dot and dot 
in hole line No. 2, and draught by " Dart Scale " (with hole 
lines.) This dart is for stout persons ; but if the waist should 
be the reverse, or slim, the second dart (No. 6) should be 
taken, the draught for seam being same as in cut having three 
darts, with the exception of lines running to bottom of arm 
size. Then draw a curved line from point two inches on 
shoulder from point of front arm size, to point of one-third of 
line No. 8 from neck down, then from a point, on curved 
line just drawn, one-third of its length from shoulder down 



23 



make a dot, then measure one inch on same line towards line 
No. 8 and dot, then draw straight lines from dots to point of 
dart, then draw dotted line half an inch above curved line as 
seen in cut. 










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24 



BASQUE SIDE BODY. 



Twenty-four. — All Basques and half 
fitting garments should be drawn with 
side seams one inch farther front than 
in plain waist for dress. This is ac- 
complished J)y extending lines Nos. 3 
and 4 on back, one inch farther for- 
ward. Then after drawing front as 
usual take off one inch in width on 
line No. 4. Then for skirt to side 
body, extend back curved line down- 
ward fourteen inches, and spring out 
one-seventh, or two inches, and meas- 
ure twelve inches, or twelve-four- 
teenths, for width of skirt at bottom, 
and make a dot, then draw line No. 10 
(as in cut) and curve for hip, then 
curve on back line No. 9. as in cut. 



25 



BASQUE — FRONT. 

Twenty -jive. — 
Draught same as for 
plain waist, except- 
ing darts, then spring 
in one inch at bot- 
tom of line No. 8, 
and outward and up- 
ward from said line 
one - half inch, the 
irregular curved line 
touching point at 
junction of lines Nos 
8 and 9. Then ' 
spring in below 
waist line, as in cut, 
showing line 12. 
Then curve in one- 
half inch on line No. 
4. Then for point 
of height of dart 
pioceed same as in 
cut No. 10. For 
first base point of dart, place straight edge of M Dart Scale," 
with outside line No, 1 on curved line, with figure line repre- 
senting size of waist over line No. 5, then dot in hole line No. 
3 for first base point of dart. Then place edge of dart scale (as 
before) on dot last made, and dot in hole line No. 4 on line 5 
for second base point of dart, then draft dart by u Dart Scale " 
in the manner represented in cut. All darts should always be 
at a right angle with the waist line, with point or top exactly 
over centre of base ; — in a word, if you were to draw a line 
through the centre, it should be exactly perpendicular. 

Length of dart in skirt in this illustration is twelve inches, 
and the dot for point on bottom is six inches from line 12, and 
the draft should be as in cut. Then draw line 10 fourteen 
inches in length, spring out seven inches, as in cut, and curve 
on hip as on side body, cut 12. 




26 




TIGHT BASQUE FRONT. 

Twenty - six. — This front is intended to fit back and side 
body, represented by cuts 11 and 12, and is drafted as for 
plain waist, with half-inch spring on lines 8 and 4, as seen in 
cut. The points for height of darts and points on bottom line 
should be exactly opposite each other, so that the darts shall 
be exactly perpendicular. 



27 




GABRIELLE DRESS. 

Twenty -seven. — For Gabrielle dress, draught back and side 
bod} 7 , allowing one inch on line 8 for spring, as in cut 13, then 
draught darts the same as for plain waist. 

The cut or draught of skirt shows length of hip to be 45 inches ; 
width of spring on line No. 10, 22 J inches ; on line No. 11 is 
40 inches, on line No. 13 is 42 inches, on line No. 14 is 41J 
inches. The distance between lines Nos. 11 and 12 is 4f inches, 
and between lines 12 and 13 is 14 inches, and between lines 13 
and 14 is 2 inches. 



28 



The waist of the skirt should be cut half an inch larger than 
the waist for bust, and this half inch should be sprung in be- 
tween the last dart and the side seam. 




LOOSE SACQUE BACK. 

Twenty - eight. — For loose sacque 
draught same as for plain waist, omit- 
ting side body, and in this illustration, 
supposing the waist to be 21 inches long, 
and allowing two inches spring on back 
centre line, drawing from line No. 1 as 
represented in cut, allowing one inch for 
spring on line 4, drawing dotted line on 
line 5, which is drawn regardless of 
waist measure, and should be straight 
from bottom of back arm size downward. 
Then curve the bottom as in cut. 




LOOSE SACQUE — FRONT. 

Twenty-nine. — This cut repre- 
sents the measure for chest, or 
bust, one inch less than for plain 
waist, and one inch added on side 
seam, and one inch spring, and 
curved as represented. A lap of 
three inches in the front will give 
a double breast. 



29 




SLEEVE — FRONT AND BACK. 

Thirty. — Draw a straight line twenty- 
four inches in length, then draw a line 
eight inches long at a right angle with 
long line, then eleven inches from point 
of angle of the lines shows point for 
elbow, from which draw a cross line 
eight inches. Thirteen inches in length 
from elbow to wrist gives length of fore- 
arm. Then a cross line five inches long 
at wrist gives size of same. Then spring 
out one inch at bottom and side of wrist 
as represented in cut, then spring in on 
long line at junction of elbow one inch, 
and out on elbow on opposite side one 
inch, and out at four inches from point of 
angle formed by long line and first eight inch line ; then curve 
with tape as represented in cut. The under side of the sleeve 
should be two inches smaller at the top and one inch smaller at 
the elbow. The figure 21 at wrist indicates the length in inches 
of the sleeve on the inside, after it is cut, and the figure 24 on 
opposite corner indicates the length ol the outside, after it is 
cut. 



NOTA BENE. 

T hirty-one. — If there should be much curve or hollowness of 
of the form, a measure should be taken directly under the bust, 
and more curve should be given to the darts, to correspond. 
This measure should always be taken when dresses are to be 
made and sent away without trying on. 

Always draught the first and third measures two inches less than 
the figures indicated by the tape. This is very essential. 

If more space between darts is desired, add twice the space 
between hole lines 3 and 4, on u Dart Scale," and deduct the 
same amount from the side seam of front waist. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 062 039 7 p 



